Yaron Shmerkin (Ukraine, 1984) is a fascinating designer, and so are his creations. His jewellery seems to be taken directly from the notebook of a biologist and, in fact, Yaron actually calls his art ‘biomimetic’.
Biomimetics is the science that studies nature as a source of inspiration, and also refers to new and innovative technologies to provide solutions for our problems that nature has already solved. The field can be applied to mechanics, by modelling systems, chemistry and anything else that imitates or takes inspiration from nature.
He studied Jewellery Design at the Shenkar College of Engineering and Design in Israel and Yaron’s favourite design technique is 3D printing. You can se his pieces now at his current exhibition “Precious sayings” as part of the Contemporary Jewellery Exhibition at the “Henkin” Gallery in Holon, Israel.
His last project is “Photosynthesis, a marvellous series of photographs published by DASH magazine. The series brought together the photographer Evelyn Bencicova, the designer Anuk Yosebashivili as art director, Simon Peters for the wardrobe and other pieces and for make-up and as stylist, Adam Csoka Keller. The end result: a breath-taking and beautifully phantasmagorical editorial.
From So Catchy! Where Fashion Begins, we hope you enjoy the interview.
SO CATCHY!: What brought you to jewellery design?
YARON SHMERKIN: Since my childhood I have had a passion for drawing and sketching, and this was mostly in the abstract form. Over the years, the abstract sketches transformed into more architectural forms until I was finally able to define my passion as a desire to design small architectural pieces with tiny details for the human body. My designs are a kind of escape into a virtual world where I can imagine myself at a smaller scale walking into a world of shapes and forms.
SC!: Tell us about your latest collection: Nudatum.
YS: My last collection was inspired from my fascination of Biomimicry, the imitation of the models, systems and elements of nature. I use nature and architecture as an inspiration in many of my works, and the combination of this with innovative technologies leads me to create ‘Bioimimetic Art’. Through this combination I am able to find new textures, shapes and elements that I use to reconnect the designs into my surroundings. Using nature as an inspiration for the aesthetic component is the benefit in my designs. I would love to use all of these components in my next collections in order to demonstrate my nature of imaginative visionary.
SC!: Which materials and techniques to you prefer working with?
YS: 3D printing and 3D software provide me with incredible tools of rewinding and preserving sketches in another form. These will lead to a state of the art creation. After printing and casting the pieces I combine different materials and techniques for finishing. After I begin working, the first sketches sometimes remain very far behind. They could be recognized only by a fine line, this line is the only connection for the conversation that I have with the design from the beginning of the process.
SC!: The best and worst things about your work are…
YS: The best part of my creation is the satisfaction I feel throughout the entire process. It amazes me to see the finished piece as I always start to design from one single line that is in common with all my designs, but that transforms differently in each creation. I never know how the finished piece will look, and it surprises me every time. The worst part of it is that I sometimes enjoy the process too much, and I subconsciously refuse to finish the final design.
SC!: What are you doing now and what will you be doing in the near future?
YS: I am currently working on my new collection, and setting up my own brand. In the near future, I would love to get married and “design” my future family
SC!: Which of your pieces do you like most or have a special affinity for?
YS: I don’t have my favourite piece or piece I am the most proud of. I have an individual and special connection to every single piece I design. Each piece in my collection has its own story and attachment to me. I consider them as treasures, each with a distinct character.
SC!: How would you define your work?
YS: I can define my work as ‘Bioimimetic Art’, simultaneously combining avant-garde and futurism. My statement through my designs could be that God is in the detail. I always believe that attention paid to small things has big rewards, and every piece I design has an amazing world that surrounds it.
SC!: A part from design, what do you like to do? Where do you find inspiration?
YS: Nature, architecture, sea and modern art. I travel a lot and visit many galleries and exhibitions. Nature, art and architecture are big part of my life.
SC!: Can you name some publications that you follow?
YS: Wallpaper, Form, Evolo, Vogue, Domus, Dezeen.
SC!: Is there anything that you can’t stop wearing?
YS: I don’t feel attached to anything that I can’t really stop wearing.
SC!: Where can we find your pieces and what’s the average price?
YS: At the end of this month my pieces will be available on my website (still under construction), and today the only way to see my designs is trough my Facebook page: Yaron Shmerkin Jewelry.
It is difficult to define the average price of my pieces as I combine different materials techniques and technologies in most of my works that would each affect the price differently.
SC!: Name some brands or designers that you admire…
YS: Zaha Hadid, Daniel Widrig.
Photography: Evelyn Bencicova
Hair, Make-Up, Styling: Adam Csoka Keller
Art Direction: Anuk Yosebashvili
Model: Linda Novotn·(exit), Marina Uhrinova, Luz La
Clothes: Silvia Kissova Cynthia Kiss, Simon Peters
Mask: Simon Peters
Assistant: Bea Prekopov
Photography: Igor Kruter
Makeup: Rinat Shor
Model: Alexandra Sonin
All other images courtesy of Yaron Shmerkin
Translation and Layout by Michael Padilla